My Journey to Afghanistan

by Michèle Andina, President Jagriti International

On My Way

As I emerged from the main terminal at Dubai International Airport, my glasses fogged over and a cloud of moist hot air blinded me.  Traveling alone, I waited in the line designated "women" and entered a taxi driven by a smartly uniformed female driver.  She explained that she only carried women or families in her cab.  My limited Arabic, her limited English and the short distance to Terminal 2 abbreviated our conversation. 

Elizabeth Gould and Paul Fitzgerald conducting an interview in garden of former Taliban prison. Wall in back with bullet holes left as a reminder for "what once was."

This would be Sima's first visit to Afghanistan since leaving in 1979, and distinguished journalists and documentarians Elizabeth Gould and Paul Fitzgerald joined us to film her journey.   Working in Afghanistan since the early '80s, their critically acclaimed documentary "Afghanistan Between Three Worlds" (1982) and fascinating book, Afghanistan End of Illusion, convey their depth of knowledge and compassion for this oft misunderstood country and its people.

The two-hour flight from Dubai to Kabul was like "old home week" for Sima. As she walked up the aisle she met relatives, old friends and neighbors whom she had not seen in years.

The joyous reunions ended when the plane touched down in Kabul. For Sima, the emotions were incredible as she looked around the airport at the destroyed and abandoned airplanes and vehicles.  Dominated by a stark natural light and dry barren hillsides, signs of decay and destruction were everywhere.

Which is why, after all, we were in Afghanistan.  Two years earlier, Sima and I worked with Afghan refugee groups in Pakistan.  At the time, we dreamed of being able to work with the  women's groups inside Afghanistan.  And now, in 2002, in this landscape of destruction and despair, it was about to happen.

Ariana Airlines stewardess offers tea

Welcome to Kabul

Immigration gave us our first taste of life in Afghanistan with  multiple passport and security checks and the  first of many electrical outages, which enhanced the  airport confusion.

Driving into Kabul over dusty streets riddled with pot holes, we observed a bustling city.  There  were also many taxis and large SUVs bearing UN insignia or the name of one of the hundreds of international non-governmental organizations (INGOs) who have arrived in Afghanistan with the intention to help reconstruct the country.  We observed women in burqas, women in street clothes and groups of young girls walking purposefully on their way to school.  We got stuck in Kabul's newest bit of modernity -- a traffic jam -- and nearly choked on the dust and vehicle pollution.

The Moustaffa Hotel (owned and run by two Afghan brothers who lived for 15 years in New Jersey) was to be our home for the next two weeks.  Since we were four people and expecting a fifth, we were given the "Penthouse Suite": four individual bedrooms, sharing one bath and a living area.  Because the Moustaffa housed many reporters and foreigners, security was high with 24-hour guards at the entrance, padlocked doors and bars on every window.  We all quickly learned how to take a 30-second scalding hot shower in the middle of the bathroom, but never complained because most of Afghanistan has neither water nor electricity.  Even at the hotel there were frequent power outages, so I abandoned any expectations of reading or working on the computer in the evenings.  Instead, conversations with colleagues and guests, including journalists representing such wide-ranging publications as Time, USA Today and Vogue, were in any case more informative and educational than anything available on satellite television.   Internet access was only available at ten computer terminals for $5 per hour in the basement of the Hotel Intercontinental (a 20-minute drive from our hotel).  But cell phones were everywhere and provided important links to people locally and internationally.

Afghan girls on their way to school

Barred windows provide security at the Hotel Moustaffa in Kabul

Is it Safe?

Before I departed on this journey, even my children (ages 23 and 25), who rarely worry about my many travels, voiced their concerns about my visit to Afghanistan.  As we walked or drove around the city, we frequently observed soldiers from Great Britain, France, Germany, Turkey and the United States walking the streets and traveling in military vehicles, guns drawn and ready to shoot.  These ISAF (International Security Assistance Force in Afghanistan) personnel and the easily recognizable U.S. Special Forces, with baseball caps, civilian clothes and flack jackets, reminded us of the ever-present danger from local warlords.  Disconcerting, yet somehow comforting, the result is that Kabul is considered to be the safest city of 3 million people anywhere in the world.

Outside Kabul is not considered to be as "safe."  A number of women told us that in many parts of the country (especially Herat and Mazaar Sharif), Taliban-like factions and edicts are still active and the ability of women to work and travel outside their homes remains limited.  In Kabul, about 40% of the women have chosen to shed the burqa, but many still feel safer wearing it while walking on the streets, free from the stares and taunts of men.

ISAF soldiers patrolling and shopping on Chicken Street provide a sense of security against local warlords

Life In Afghanistan

After a quarter century of war, multiple generations have missed opportunities for education and for developing working skills.  A recent UN study revealed a 4% literacy rate throughout Afghanistan.  Afghans who have been living in Pakistan, Iran, Canada, Europe and the U.S. are returning to provide an educated and skilled labor force.  Many would like to return "home" and rebuild their country, but some find it difficult because the living standard and employment opportunites are very limited.  Those who are returning are actively engaged in creating local NGOs and schools as a way of contributing to their nation's reconstruction. 

A visit to a local orphanage revealed one of the very sad facts about life today in Afghanistan: many children have lost one or both parents.  The orphanage overflows with children whose parents are unable to feed, educate and protect them.  The dangers to unprotected daughters are particularly acute.  An orphanage that offers the children shelter, food and education is often a better, if painful, option.

Children at the orphanage learn and sleep in the same room.

An unintended side effect of such concentrated UN/INGO presence is that housing costs have skyrocketed, as have the salary demands of trained office staff.  English-speaking translators (available in limited supply) who once worked for $50 per month, now charge $50 per day.  Houses, often needing major refurbishing, can cost up to $10,000 per month to rent, with an average cost of $1500 for a small multi-room dwelling.  Because housing, electricity, heating and water are in short supply owing to the massive destruction throughout the country, many refugees in Pakistan and Iran are waiting for the winter to pass before they return to Kabul.

Buildings destroyed during the early 1990's and later by the American bombing remain as evidence of the devastation of the country.

Sima Wali visiting WOMAN, an NGO founded by a returning Afghan-American

This widowed mother in the burqa is crying hysterically because she wants the orphanage to accept her two daughters so that they will be safe and have enough to eat. She cannot protect them while she works.

Rental apartment buildings that have been bombed remain inhabited by people who are grateful to have shelter.

Because of Sima's prominence we also had the opportunity to meet with officials from the government, international donor agencies and the UN.  All expressed frustration with the slow release of funds and the difficulties of "giving birth" to a new government.    There were also voices of skepticism about America's long-term commitment, especially in the face of a war with Iraq, as well as major concerns about the continued presence of powerful, armed warlords around the country.   Yet, from all sectors, we heard gratitude to the international community (especially to the Americans) for helping to force out the Taliban and for the commitment to rebuild Afghanistan.

The Ministry of Women's Affairs (MOWA), a newly created Afghanistan Government agency, is a direct result of the efforts of Sima and two colleagues who participated in the peace negotiations.  Currently headed by Habiba Sarobi, the second woman to assume the role (Dr. Sima Sahar left due to threats against her life), this new ministry is struggling to find its role and place within the Afghanistan government.  At MOWA we conducted a networking meeting, attended by ministry personnel and  women's NGO representatives.  Everyone wanted to participate in RefWIDs training to improve their organizational and management skills.  RefWID's training, offered free of charge, was especially welcomed by ministry personnel who earn an average salary of $40 per month.  RefWID hopes to return in the near future specifically to offer training to MOWA personnel.

Refugee Women and Development Networking meeting at the Ministry of Women's Affairs, October 9, 2002 - Sima Wali, President, fourth from left.

The glory that once was Afghanistan is evident in the beautiful buildings and gardens at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs

During the final week we conducted  a four-day Proposal Writing Workshop for 22 participants representing 18 Afghan women's NGOs.   Lead by Dr. Soheir Stolba and simultaneously translated from English to Dari, each participant worked on their own proposal, learning how to create mission statements, goals, objectives, inputs, outputs, budgets etc.  Frequently breaking up into small groups for hands-on assistance, Dr. Michele Andina and Ms. Sima Wali served as facilitators.  At the end of four days, each participant arrived with their proposal, including beautifully prepared cover pages.  At the small graduation ceremony, certificates of completion were awarded and evaluations collected.  Many participants voiced their sincere appreciation for this type of training. 

RefWID Proposal Writing Workshop, Kabul, October 14-17, 2002

"We need these skills to do our work better and we need to learn so much.  I have learned so much!  Please come again and teach us more, especially in such a friendly and interactive way."  -- Nadia, representing Afghan Women's Network

Not to be forgotten on any journey, is the important task of shopping.  "Chicken Street," conveniently located around the corner from the Moustaffa Hotel, is the Beverly Hills Rodeo Drive of Kabul.  Handicrafts, clothes, jewelry, rugs, antique guns and sabers are on sale in shop after shop.  Due to the lack of electricity, each shop has its own generator, so walking down Chicken Street is a challenge to one's auditory system.  Beggars, especially women in burqas with children in their arms, or handicapped people, are frequently present.  Bargaining, a traditional part of the culture, is expected, but when one is asked to pay $20 for a handmade lapis and silver belt, one quickly agrees to pay $15.  The new currency, just introduced during our visit in October 2002, will also make shopping easier because 10,000 Afghanis was worth about 20 U.S. cents, so plastic bags full of money were a common sight. 

Traditional Afghan bread hanging outside of the bakery waiting to be purchased

Afghanis, the local currency, each package worth about US$5. New currency was introduced during our visit.

It's hard to find words to describe the resilience and courage of women who living with sporadic mortar attacks, little electricity, water or food somehow managed to provide home schools, vocational training and income generating opportunities to women in their communities, all the while never knowing when the Taliban would arrive at their door to beat them or drag them off to detention centers.  In fact, with or without outside help, these amazing women's groups will continue to educate, train and help themselves.  Now they have a future to which they can look forward.  Slowly, they're returning "home," and with a long-term commitment and support of the international community, a viable Afghan civil society can and will be rebuilt -- group by group, school by school and person by person.  Now, it's up to all of us, both as individuals and collectively to support their courage, faith and hope. 

In peace and solidarity with the women of Afghanistan,

Michele (Mikki) Andina,
Jagriti International President

Three young girls participating in a local program for "street children" who followed the author each day as she walked to RefWIDs training.

A very special thanks to Sima Wali and RefWID for making this trip possible. 

What can you do to help?

Support an Afghan women's group by:

1)       Making a donation to Jagriti International.

Donations go toward:

·        Grants to Afghan women's groups participating in our Bridging Worlds program. 

·        Covering the expenses for an emerging Afghan woman leader, representing her organization, to enhance her skills as a Bridging Worlds volunteer with a U.S. based women's group. 

2)      Volunteer your skills and serve as a Bridging Worlds volunteer to one of our Afghan women's groups

3)      Join us on an Awakening Journey to Afghanistan (tentatively scheduled for Fall 2003) to learn more about the work of Afghan women's organizations. 

Three women who choose to wear burqas to conserve their modesty and assure their safety. Approximately 40% of the women in Kabul have shed the burqa.