Bridging Worlds Volunteer Journals

Anne Lee Online Journal
Anne Lee California, USA Feminist Dalit Organization - Kathmandu, Nepal

Jagriti Volunteer Journal # 5

In the Field . . .

A trip to the rural areas of Nepal, to visit women's groups in villages, has been my desire since coming to Nepal. Finally on June 7th in spite of the combined threats of bandhs, pre-monsoon rains, and Maoist activity, Indira Ghale and I left Kathmandu for a 10-day trip. Our journey was to take us from Kathmandu southwest to the Terai region, then along the Mahendra Highway that runs the length of the country from east to west. This is one of the two main highways that exist in Nepal.

I need to pause here and explain travel in Nepal. Buses are the main form of public transportation, and are relatively inexpensive. They are also very uncomfortable, crowded, dirty and old. People, possessions, and animals are literally crammed inside and on top of the bus; one marvels that there is enough horsepower to get going. On steep mountain roads walkers often overtake the bus. Day buses are preferred for safety as well as sightseeing. The downside of day travel is that the buses appear to stop more than they go. The highway is a two-lane road occupied by vehicles, humans, and animals. The buses and trucks travel at high speeds through numerous small villages avoiding other equal and lesser vehicle such as trucks, cars, motorcycles, tractors, and bicycle rickshaws. People and animals, cows, goats, ducks, chickens, and dogs all casually stroll along this major road. Although some may term the driving style as maniacal, I am impressed the skill and "nerves of steal" of the bus drivers. In spite of all of these conditions, I truly enjoyed the experience of long distance bus travel.

Our round trip was roughly 1000 kms. We decided to fly from Kathmandu to the most westerly point of our journey, Bhairawa, then travel by bus to Dhankuta, in the northeast. Our return trip was by bus directly south from Dhankuta to the airport in Biratnegar; then a flight back to Kathmandu. This itinerary saved us two to three travel days, and twenty-two hours of bus travel. The expensive airfare, for Americans, seemed like a fair trade-off.

We flew Buddha Airline's 30+ passenger Beech 500. I sat on the right side of the plane hoping to see the Himalayas. A thick cloud cover obscured the view. Only the snow-covered peaks were visible above the clouds. What a sight. I felt very safe in the hands of Buddha!

Bhairawa 282 kms southwest of Kathmandu, is at an altitude of 450ft; Kathmandu is at 4,386ft. The altitude difference was very apparent as we stepped off the plane into the heat and humidity of the Terai. Walking from the small airport, to locate a bus, we soon began to "melt." Indira convinced me that a bicycle rickshaw, my first, was preferable to walking. The rickshaw drivers pedal ancient single geared bikes, pulling a rickshaw with two people or any commodity that needs to be transported. This is the usual transportation in most Terai towns, as the terrain is quite flat. I am not reconciled to being pulled along by another human being; however, the rationale is that I am helping someone make a living.

Our final destination for the day was a short bus ride away. We would meet staff at the district office of Feminist Dalit Organization (FEDO,) in Butwal. We stopped for a much needed cup of Nepali tea and sheltered from a sudden downpour. I became acquainted with a cow that had his nose pressed against the glass of the teashop; he was also taking shelter from the rain. The pre-monsoon rain soon lessened and we were on our way. Arriving in Butwal I took out my dog-eared copy of Lonely Planet Nepal (LPN), and found us a hotel. The LPN assured us that there were plenty of cheap hotels, just what we were looking for. Our hotel was shabby, moderately clean, and definitely cheap - about $5.00 per night. For this price you get a fan, shower with cold water, 'western toilet', traffic noise and loud Nepali music piped in from the street at about 6:00 a.m. What more can you ask for? This hotel was fairly typical of our accommodation en route. A bargain at the price!

I was very excited to meet the women of the village outside of Butwal. I didn't realize how "outside" it was until our guides started negotiating with several drivers of old military style jeeps (WW 11?) to take us to the village. They struck a deal and we were off on a two-hour adventure ride. We traveled on a paved road passing fertile fields of rice, maize, sugar cane, and forested areas. The houses are mud with thatched roofs, and many goats and cows are kept close to the houses. Conical 'hay stacks' dotted the landscape. We then turned off onto the unpaved road and bumped along for the last third of the trip. It was a pleasant change to travel on a quiet road lined with trees that sheltered us from the hot sun.

Nepali's are most hospitable people; however this village takes the prize for making us feel welcome! There were about fifty women and some men, representing nine women's groups from the area. We were treated like visiting royalty. The mala is a ceremonial collar made of grass, this was placed around our necks, tika (red powder) placed on our forehead, and bunches of fresh flowers presented with a "namaste." After the ceremonies I talked with the group about their challenges and successes. Many women were shy, however the president encouraged everyone to say something. We discovered that they are enthusiastic about FEDO's assistance in forming women's groups. There are also some major health care needs. A Mobile Clinic and reduced rate drugs projects are no longer funded. Most importantly there is no midwife in the area. Women must travel to the hospital in Butwal, approximately 35 kms. As I described, the road is very rough in places. Three infants in the last two months have died at birth because of complications and not being able to access medical care. The women's group suggested providing midwifery training to one of the young women in the area. A small grant could pay for the tuition and living expenses of a student from the village.

After many "namastes" and many photos we reluctantly left the village en route to our next stop. Narayanghat was a place to spend the night. I was not encouraged by LPN,s comments " If due to bad luck or bad management, you are forced to stay the night, there are few choices." We opted for the Hotel River View, on the banks of the Narayani River. It was almost dark as we slipped and slithered down the muddy banks to the hotel. We passed by shacks of squatters, with children and dogs, people washing in the river, and women squatting over fires preparing the evening meal. It was getting a little "spooky;" then we saw a billboard - Hotel River View. The gate opened onto a path surrounded by an unkempt garden and a hotel that had seen better days. The staff welcomed their only guests enthusiastically. We departed the next morning at 7:00 a.m. leaving the room payment in an envelope, as there were no staff around. That's trust for you!

Our destination was Janakpur, a six-hour bus ride, and a one-day stop to visit the Janakpur Women's Art Project. We had no idea of the adventures ahead! About two hours into our bus journey, we came up to a line of traffic that reached about a mile ahead of us, and subsequently a mile behind us. The driver and passengers had no idea what was happening and no "officials" where around to inform us. Everyone assumed it was yet another checkpoint. I forgot to mention that bus travel is also slowed down by numerous military checkpoints. This entails all passengers, except elderly and tourists, getting off the bus with their bags, walking several hundred yards to be checked, then getting back on. The military personnel board the bus with rifles, look around, and off you go. This was not to be one of those routine checks!

Everyone waited good-naturedly, the Nepali way. Indira and I sat on the pavement in the shade of the bus, with the men; the women stayed inside. We discussed politics; "give the Maoists a chance at power, they can't be any worse," seemed to be the consensus of our group. After a few hours and still no news, several buses decided to turn around to a small settlement a mile back. Since most people had no food or water, this was greeted with enthusiasm. Before we reached the settlement, soldiers stopped us and said that there was military action with the Maoist rebels and we could not go forward or back. We turned around and took our place in line. When we finally got moving again after a total of six hours, we saw the results of the battle. A military tank was destroyed, and there was a crater in the road; we heard that several soldiers had been injured.

The six-hour bus trip that turned into twelve hours was not to be the end of our adventures. On reaching our hotel in Janakpur we heard that there was to be a three-day bandh taking place the next day. We resigned ourselves, for the moment, to three-days in our "moderately grubby" hotel. Janakpur is a very hot, dirty town, close to the Indian border. It is renowned for many Hindu temples, sacred pools, and is the legendary birthplace of Sita, as well as the site of her marriage to Rama. The Janaki Temple is a very large and imposing, located in a square. It could definitely use some paint and a 'clean-up' campaign. Next-door is Ram Sita Bibaha Temple, the spot where Rama ans Sita were married. Inside this temple are life-sized figures of the bride and groom, and wedding party.

The highlight of my stay was a visit to the Janakpur Women's Art Project; artists use the tradition of Mithila painting. The project is housed in the Janakpur Women's Development Center, located south of town, a rickshaw ride away. The very bumpy road goes through a most interesting village, typical of the Mithila people. The houses are made of thatch, plastered with cow dung and mud, and they have thatched roofs. A high brick wall surrounds the Center, which is in a mango grove. Low buildings, Mithila style, with tiled roofs, are placed around a courtyard where red peppers lay out to dry. It is a beautiful serene place; a stark contrast to the town. The Janikpur Women's Art Center was founded in 1989. A Non Governmental Organization (NGO) the women themselves produce and market their art. The artwork is part of the religious and cultural life of Mithila people. Paintings, pottery, and sewing, often have simple abstract figures, or scenes from Hindu mythology. The artwork is vibrant and colorful, with complex symbols and a strong sense of formal design. You can watch the women at work in the center and buy their products.

After three very long, hot, frustrating days we were thankful to leave Janakpur. We took the first bus out to Siraha and the village of Mirchaiya. We planned on meeting with FEDO staff and visiting a women's group. The village we visited, is a collection of about fifteen typical mud hut homes. The villagers are day laborers earning about $1.00 per day for their farm labor. There are no toilets in the village and one well for water. It is very difficult for families to send their children to school. Although government schools do not charge tuition, there are charges for compulsory uniforms, supplies, and books. In addition, children often work to help support the family, and take care of younger siblings while parents work. Scholarships/funding for education of children, and sanitation are major needs. There were many babies and small children in the village. I shared details of my family with the women, and enjoyed playing with the babies. This is a commonality that bridges, race, culture and creed.

At last we were to leave the heat of the Terai and move northeast to the foothills. Our next stop was Dharan en route to Dhankuta. The road is not for the faint of heart, it crosses rivers, climbs steeply, and takes all the power the old bus can muster. Dhankuta is built on a ridge running north and south. The LPN says that the only flat spot is the bus station and they aren't kidding! The view from my hotel was breathtaking. It was like being in the Alps. Again the clouds obscured the high peaks, but I was quite content to view the hills, displaying all their splendorous greenery. My hotel was a new business and the owners were wonderful. The next day we walked to the village of Todke about an hours walk on the next ridge! The road is very rough and not used by vehicles.

The village has twenty-seven homes, and men are employed as carpenters, and builders. Each family had a garden with maize, and a variety of vegetables, chickens, pigs and cows. At the village we met with approximately 15 women, and participated in a lively discussion. The village has toilets thanks to a coordinated effort of FEDO and the Peace Corps. However, a shortage of water is a major issue. All the women present, except one, delivered their babies in the village with the assistance of a "lay" midwife. The one woman had a "breech" birth and went to the hospital. I would suspect that the amount of daily exercise could contribute to easy births! Most of the women are illiterate. Literacy training for women is necessary as a first step to education and empowerment. Funding/scholarships for children is also a need. The children must walk many miles to school, and there must be an incentive for parents to send them. Also many children do not have an adequate breakfast and no lunch, therefore cannot concentrate on school studies. Dhankuta is a very beautiful place. It has a lot of potential for tourism, with natural beauty and friendly people. It is also Indira's hometown!

Our ten-day adventure was coming to a close and we reluctantly took the bus down the hill to the heat and traffic of the airport at Biratnegar. I was relieved that we did not have to take a bus back to Kathmandu; at least a sixteen-hour ride. This was such a memorable trip. The women that I met will always been in my thoughts, as they touched my heart. I believe we made a connection as women, as mothers, as grandmothers. I am committed to share their stories so as to bring us all closer together as human beings.

May 23, 2004 Jagriti Volunteer Journal # 4

Nepal is divided into governmental districts, similar to counties in the United States. Lalitpur district includes the city of Patan, in which I live, as well as a large rural area. This is to be my first journey outside of town. I am visiting the village of Jharuwarashi home to Pabrita Das, the Feminist Dalit Organization (FEDO) representative for Lalitpur District.

We travel by tempo (three-wheeled bus) to Langankhel, the long distance bus terminus. It is also the site of a bustling farmer's market. Vendors share space with buses and taxis, laying out their colorful vegetables and other wares on mats. Transfer passengers listen to the cries of young boys announcing destinations of buses. The air is hazy with smoke from the old buses, still sporting remnants of decorations from a past festival.

I lose myself in the crowd as my two Nepali companions Indira and Pabrita, bargain with the taxi driver. I've learned that my presence is an impediment to successful transactions. The deal is struck. Two people already occupy the front bucket seat, and one old gentleman is in the back. Undeterred the three of us squeeze in to this very small vehicle, traveling "cheek by jowl."

Leaving Kathmandu's congested highways behind, we pass through areas of cornfields, and settlements with ancient buildings made of stone and mud. Attached side-by-side the houses are several stories high. The ground floor traditionally is not considered suitable for living quarters and is used for animals or commerce. Ducks, goats, and women washing clothes share the water of square walled reservoirs.

In sharp contrast to the mud and brick houses, dotted amongst the fields there are striking tall brick houses washed in vibrant colors of yellows peach, and blue. They are typical of the many-storied Newari houses, with kitchen and dining room on the roof terrace. I am told that many of these homes belong to retired Gurkhas from the British Army.

We stop for lunch at a local restaurant and store. There is one outer room with four tables, and a dark back room occupied by a few men. I order a marsala omelet, and Nepali tea, both are delicious. Our journey continues on a dirt road, through fields with newly sprouted corn, views of the Kathmandu valley, and surrounding hills. We pass a school for local children. Pabrita says that just a few years ago she was the only child to go to school, now because of scholarships, fifty percent of the pupils are Dalit (untouchable) children.

Leaving the taxi we continue on foot. Small stone and mud houses are on either side. The air feels cool and clean. Healthy looking milk cows, pigs, and goats occupy stalls attached to the houses. I feel very much at home here!

As we walk down the road, Pabrita shouts to each house that there is to be a community meeting. We arrive at the home where are meeting is to take place. A covered porch runs along the front of the one story house; we remove our shoes and sit on a woven mat. Women begin to arrive and "namastes" are exchanged. Soon we have a group of about twelve women of all ages sitting cross-legged on the porch. A couple of small boys join us, and a young mother carries a beautiful baby with large brown eyes.

I learn that FEDO helped organize the Women's Group; however, an elected committee and members now manage it. Each member contributes money, monthly, to a community fund. The money is then available in the form of loans to purchase animals, or seed for crops. Several Non-Government Organizations (NGO's) including FEDO, assist the village with training and some funds. I ask about the reactions of husbands to this enterprise. The women say that their husbands are supportive as they see the financial benefits. The women used to work in the fields for minimal pay or in exchange for food. Now they are home with their children and make more money raising animals. The group stresses that including men in training sessions is very important; their involvement helps to ensure success.

Sharing the stories of Dalit women, giving voices to those who have none, is a way to bridge our worlds. Meeting with the community group, and through Indira's excellent interpretation, I learn about their group, and some details of their lives. One elderly woman tells me she gave birth to eleven children, but only three survived. I am aware, however, that so much more is happening as we sit down together. I know intuitively, that we are bridging worlds through our non-verbal interaction; woman to woman, mother to mother, grandmother to grandmother. This is what I take away with me, and hopefully can convey.

We left the village, and my heart is full. I promise to return. One of the small boys whispers "Namaste hajuraamaa" - "Good-bye grandma" and my heart melts.

May 16, 2004 Jagriti - Awakening!

Bridging Worlds . . .

These words take on new meaning now I am here in Nepal. Every day is an opportunity for bridging worlds, like the delightful conversation I had walking to the market. My companion was a 13 year old boy who spoke very good English, and was eager to chat. We walked about half-a mile together and talked about our families and our country's; differences and similarities. He was told that children in America only went to school for a couple of hours per day! I cleared up that misconception! We also discussed the merits of working after school and during holidays. I assured him that my children always had jobs. He attended public (private) school and said he was fortunate that both parents worked, so there was money available for his education. We exchanged e-mails and promised to keep in touch!

The "bridge" between Nepal and the U.S. is very great both figuratively and literally. Nita our wonderful house-helper and I sat down with a Globe to locate our home country's. We discovered that Nepal is half the way around the world from America! We then located her father's home in the foothills of the Sagarmatha (Everest) region. She and her family journeyed from their ancestral home to Kathmandu, on foot. They walked for five days, carrying supplies, cooking utensils, and clothes on their backs; camping and cooking along the way. It only took me three days to come half way around the world!

Sharing and caring are words that come to mind when I think of the amazing Nepali women in not-for-profit agencies. Faced with huge problems and limited funds these women are committed to providing resources for those in need under very difficult circumstances. Many International Non-Govermental Organizations (INGO's) have withdrawn from Nepal because of the Maoist insurgency in the countryside. This means loss of funding and services to those who need them most. I am awakening to the growing needs of a rural population caught in the middle. How do you provide education when schools are being closed and teachers abducted? How do you provide for widows and their children? How do you provide support and services to women who have chosen to leave, or have escaped from the Maoist army and are unable to return to their families? Many questions that I am unable to answer. However, the partnership of so many committed individuals each working on a part of the solution is a powerful force for change. "In the course of this century, we will also prove that the best strategy of conflict prevention is to expand the role of women as peacemakers." Kofi Annan, UN Secretary General, June 2000.

I am awakening to the understanding that bridging worlds is all about embracing our differences and celebrating how much we really are alike!

May 10, 2004 Volunteer Journal # 2

Greetings from Patan/Kathmandu,

I am starting my second week in Nepal, and already feel so "at home." The wonderful Nepali's make the chaos of the city tolerable.

Each day I walk to the FEDO office I feel less like a tourist. I am fitting in with the rythmn of the pedestrians, and managing to avoid the traffic. Outside the gates of my house, several stray dogs and often a couple of young cows, forage through the remains of garbage. I quietly say "Good Morning!"

My route takes me past many small shops. The area is full of copy and print shops. I am told that many businesses do not have there own copy machines. Internet cafes are also abundant. For 20-25 Nepali Rupees (approx 72 rupees to a $1.00) one can get an hour of internet time.

School children wait to be picked up by their school's bus. They are neat and clean in white uniforms. Many mothers wait with them, looking colorful in sari's. I wonder how people are able to be so well groomed when many houses do not have running water, and washing is done by hand.

Vendors congregate at a busy traffic intersection selling corn roasted on a small fire. Nearby a building site employs women laborers to move dirt and bricks. Men carry baskets full of bricks using a head band. What neck muscles! I saw a man carrying a small refrigerator in a box, the same way.

My neighborhood, Patan Dhoka - Patan Gate, has a long Buddhist history. At the end of the workday, before dinner, I stroll through the narrow streets to the internet cafe. I pass many shrines and temples, small shops, vendors, dogs and of course motorcycles. I am always surprised that vendor's wares aren't run over as they sit on the edge of the narrow streets. The neighborhood is alive with people, shopping, walking, sitting in tiny stores.

Patan is separated from Kathmandu by the Bagmati River, it is also called Lalitpur, which means beautiful city. Durbar Square is the center of Patan and filled with many temples. I feel fortunate to be living in this historic city.

Living outside of the city, I don't see the student demonstrations. I have only witnessed one small group of students who burned tires, in Patan. There certainly is political unrest, but it is not apparent day to day. A General strike is called for this week, so I'm sure that will cause much disruption of services.

It is an historic time in Nepal, and I feel fortunate to be watching first-hand as the country searches for solutions.

Namaste

May 8, 2004 Jagriti Volunteer Journal # 1

"Namaste"

The Nepali greeting meaning both "hello" and "goodbye." It's my one word so far. In Kathmandu many Nepali's speak English making communication quite easy.

The journey to Nepal was a long one taking me through London, Delhi, and finally Kathmandu Nepal. It was thrilling to fly over Kabul, and Islamabad, formerly just names in the news. The realization hit that I really was far from home!

The population of Kathmandu is about 500,000 and it seems like everyone is on the move from 6:00 a.m. onwards. Traffic is horrendous, the roads are narrow and pedestrians have to share the road with cows, cars, taxis, motorcycles, buses, bicycles, tempos - a three wheeled mass transit vehicle. A course in "jay walking" should be mandatory before visiting Kathmandu as there are no traffic lights or pedestrian crossings so you can't be "chicken" crossing the road! Road rage is non-existent and drivers navigate the traffic maze with incredible skill and good nature; however, passengers need to remain calm and trust in the "Universe!"

Before leaving the subject of traffic, I must share this story. Riding in a taxi the other evening, we were stuck at a particularly busy intersection. Traffic was coming from four directions and a beleaguered policeman was in the middle trying to sort out the mess. When from between the cars I spotted a cow walking leisurely between the traffic. She positioned herself alongside the traffic cop, as if to lend a hand. That's Kathmandu!.

We celebrated the 2548th birthday of Buddha -Siddhartha, on May 4th. Buddha was born in Lumbini, Nepal, and so his birthday is an official holiday. I visited the Boudha Stupa, a magnificent hemispherical temple on the eastern side of Kathmandu. It is the largest stupa in Nepal, and one of the largest in the world. The religious center for Nepal's Tibetan population, the stupa is surrounded by monasteries. Thousands of people representing the many ethnic groups in Nepal were all celebrating together. Buddhist monks encircled the base of the stupa and chanted. The experience was wonderful, and I wasn't bothered by the crowds. Nepali people are so very courteous and there isn't the jostling and aggravation that one finds in other countries.

Nepal is indeed a magical place and I feel so at home here.

Namaste